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HANDLING traits
 

This section deals with vehicle dynamics. After exploring this section, we hope you'll have a better understanding of what your car is doing underneath you - especially when you're really pushing it - and how to anticipate and deal with those situations where grip quickly turns into slip.

There are two main ways a car will behave when the tyres start to lose grip: it will either understeer, or oversteer. Different cars are set up to counteract these two situations in different ways, but all cars can eventually succumb to both.

Under- and oversteer are both affected by weight transfer and grip. We'll also discuss these important factors, and how you as a driver can use them to your advantage.
 

For understeer, read on or click here.
Move on to oversteer.
Move on to weight transfer.
Move on to grip.
 

understeer

Understeer is what happens when the front end of the car loses its grip before the rear end. The result is a feeling that the car refuses to change direction in response to your steering inputs, and doesn't follow your intended path. Some drivers describe this as 'washing wide', 'pushing' or 'ploughing straight on'.

Virtually all cars made today - even many high-performance sports cars - are engineered to initially behave this way under extreme cornering conditions, because it's generally easier to correct (especially on public roads).

The main contributing factor to understeer is heading into a corner with too much speed. When this happens, the easiest way to counteract the understeer is to react as you probably would instinctively: ease off of the throttle, and let your speed fall until the front tyres regain grip. If you've carried way too much speed into the corner, then simply lifting off isn't going to be enough; you may have to also begin to straighten the wheels until the front tyres find grip, then carefully brake to scrub off more speed. Once your speed falls sufficiently, you can then smoothly feed some steering lock back in to get you around safely. It might even be necessary to slow to a very low speed, to ensure that you don't return to understeer, and to regain your mental composure.

When easing off the throttle, do it with care! This can't be stressed enough. On some cars (especially older, front-drive models) understeer can quickly turn to oversteer - and a total loss of control - if you lift too suddenly or too much. So, be smooth when you lift, and pay attention to how the front and rear react to your inputs (see oversteer for more info on this scenario).

Understeer can sometimes occur when accelerating hard out of a corner. To prevent this, reduce the amount of throttle; be smooth, steady, and patient. Look at where you need to end up once the road straightens out, and you'll be able to judge throttle inputs instinctively.

Understeer is generally a very undesirable thing to have during committed driving, because it can rob you of speed, and the car just feels frustratingly lazy and dull. There are a few ways you can prevent under-steer in the first place:

  • don't go into corners too fast - make sure the tyres have enough grip to change the direction of the car
  • be smooth with your steering inputs - turning the wheel too quickly will overwhelm the front tyres; they won't bite into the road, because they're changing direction too quickly
  • be patient with the throttle if you start to wash wide mid-corner, you're probably feeding in too much throttle

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oversteer

Oversteer is what happens when the rear end of the car loses its grip before the front end. The result is a sensation of the rear trying to rotate around and swap places with the front. With oversteer, the rear end of your car is trying to hurtle straight on, while the front is continuing to change direction.

Oversteer is a far more dangerous situation to have on a public road than under-steer, because it can happen very quickly, and requires fast reflexes and foresight to successfully recover (it's quite difficult to provoke oversteer in most road cars, since they're deliberately designed to behave this way). Oversteer (especially on a public road) should be approached with the utmost respect.

Oversteer generally can occur under these situations:

  • violently quick side-to-side swerving (ever wonder how some cars end up facing backward on the motorway?)
  • suddenly or completely lifting off the throttle during hard cornering
  • too much power applied to the rear wheels during cornering (rear- and four-wheel-drive cars only)

Sometimes, it can be a combination of these factors that cause oversteer or an outright spin, and some cars will react more strongly to these situations than others. Many modern traction and stability control systems can almost completely prevent oversteer from becoming a spin.

When used in a controlled manner, oversteer can be a helpful cornering aid, because it helps steer a car more tightly around a corner. Fully exploring the oversteer properties of your car is probably something best left to a closed course or a large, empty, vacant lot. If you do find yourself in a situation where oversteer becomes unwanted, here are a few ways to prevent or eliminate it.

  • Applying opposite lock (briefly turn the wheel in the opposite direction to the tail slide). This is usually instinctive, but the moment you feel the rear tyres begin to regain grip, start to unwind the steering to once again point in the direction you want to travel, or you'll end up spinning the other way! Look to where you want to end up, and not at where/what you're trying to avoid spinning in to, or you'll probably end up there.
  • Don't come off the throttle too quickly or too much while cornering. This is known as lift-off oversteer, or lift-throttle oversteer. By lifting too much, the weight of the car is thrown to the front tyres. As the front then suddenly gains more grip, the rear - just as suddenly - loses it, which can trigger a spin.
  • Applying more throttle can also be used to 'settle the tail' if it begins to break loose. By doing this, weight is shifted to the rear of the car, momentarily giving the rear tyres more grip. Beware though, as you're also increasing your speed, and you could risk running wide. This last technique might be more useable for those with more experience, or those who can practise it in an area with lots of run-off space.

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weight transfer

Weight transfer, put simply, is a term used to describe how a car's balance shifts in relation to changes in speed or direction. Having a decent understanding of weight transfer, how it affects your car's handling, and how you can make it work for you will help make your driving smoother, and increase your car control skill.

We're all familiar with weight transfer:

  • under acceleration, a car squats over its rear tyres - the car's weight is 'thrown back', and the rear becomes heavier.
  • under braking, a car dives forward over its front tyres - the car's weight is 'thrown forward', and the front becomes heavier
  • whilst cornering, a car leans toward one side - the car's weight is pitched to one side, and that side becomes heavier

The goal of a good driver is to keep these changes in weight transfer smooth, and to eliminate unnecessary weight transfer all together. Or in other words, to keep the car balanced. But weight transfer is by no means a bad thing; the key is knowing how to use it to your advantage.

Weight transfer affects how each of your car's four tyres grip the road. The tyre with the most weight pressing it down onto the road has the most grip. If you can keep weight transfer smooth and consistent during braking, accelerating, or cornering, you can maximise stability and grip. To make weight transfer smooth, simply keep your brake, throttle, and steering inputs as smooth as you can.

When your inputs neat and decisive, and the weight transfer is smooth, your car's reactions to changes in speed or direction will become more predictable and easier to manage. This stable, predictable condition is known as 'taking a set'; once the weight of the car has been fully transferred, it pushes the tyres firmly onto the road to provide optimum grip, and the car is properly balanced and stable.

Jerky or erratic inputs upset the balance of the car and causes instability, because the tyres can't grip long or efficenty enough to take the car along your intended path. Once you understand how - and feel when - your car takes a set you will begin to work with these forces. As a result, you'll find yourself fighting less with the car during hard driving.

Here are some examples of how weight transfer can affect handling during hard driving:

  • Smoothly but quickly squeezing the brake pedal - instead of suddenly mashing it - will give the car time to shift its weight forwards progressively. A sudden loss of weight (and therefore grip) over the rear tyres due to sudden braking can cause your car's tail-end to become very unstable, and make it very difficult to properly negotiate an upcoming corner
  • Easing off the brake pedal - instead of suddenly releasing - while going into a corner will ease the transition between extreme braking and extreme cornering. Suddenly releasing will shift the some of the car's weight rearwards, which causes the front tyres to lose turn-in grip, and leads to frustrating understeer.
  • In mid-corner, lifting off the throttle too quickly will pitch the car's weight forward, resulting in a loss of rear-end grip (oversteer) and very likely, a spin.

Weight transfer is dynamic and fluid, which means it's happening all the time, and in different directions and amounts; from front to back, side to side, and even (especially) corner to corner. It happens every time you brake, accelerate, turn or perform perform any combination of those. If you're able to understand how to use weight transfer to your advantage, you'll be smoother, safer, and a lot faster.

Note: your human passengers also undergo weight transfer. If their brains don't have enough time to get used to a change in direction, then car sickness will set in. Keep the poor souls in mind too.

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grip

Grip is actually the friction between the road surface and the contact patches of your tyres. If you take an A4/Letter-sized sheet of paper and divide it into four equal rectangles, you'd be looking at the gripping surface available to your typical family hatch. The fact that these tiny surfaces keep a 1300-kilogram high-speed vehicle on the road is quite amazing.

A sound principle to consider is learning to manage your available grip. The total amount of grip a tyre has must be shared by three familiar forces:

  1. Acceleration
  2. Braking
  3. Cornering

Tyre grip is like human concentration. If we devote our brain to one task only, we can perform it with maximum efficiency. If we introduce another task, then our concentration and efficiency for the first task falls. The more mental ability we devote to one task, the less we can give to the other. There's only so much we're able to juggle at one time.

Tyres are much the same. Braking can only be performed at 100 per cent efficiency if it's the only task we ask the tyres to perform. The same is true of acceleration or cornering. The moment we try to introduce another task to tyres which are already gripping at 100 per cent efficiency, they become overwhelmed by the double-duty, and all grip is lost.

When driving on public roads, it's crucial to understand how much grip is available at any given time, and how much you should devote to one task. Keep a reserve of grip available for unexpected situations, like a corner which tightens unexpectedly, a misjudged entry speed, or a deer that strays onto the road mid-bend.

On the track, it's safer to brake, accelerate, or corner at the very limit. But there are instances where you have to brake and turn in to a corner, or accelerate whilst coming through or out of one. In both cases, knowing how to manage all your available grip, to achieve the desired result, will make you safer on the road and faster on the track.

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Note: since understanding all aspects of on-the-limit behaviour can get a lot more complicated than this, you can visit Raadius' Resources section to find more in-depth information.

 

 

 

 

 

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